This page gives a detailed description of the Mole Catching
Kit
Some
facts!
- I am a mole catcher, with over 40 years of
experience.
- The Mole Trap
most commonly sold in the UK, the scissor type, is the least suitable for the inexperienced
user.
- Many of the cheap imported traps are so bad that moles can be
nipped and are then are very shy of a trap.
- One of the most commonly sold Tunnel Traps has a design flaw that allows
moles to escape.
This page and the Trap Review
page will hopefully assist you to purchase good equipment and give you every
chance of becoming a successful mole
catcher.
If you ring and ask for advice (you are welcome to do so) I will tell you that if
you want to catch moles then your best bet is to buy THE MOLE CATCHING KIT. Less than the cost of one
visit from a mole catcher! The most common question I am asked is how many traps are required.
You need enough traps initially to clear an area of moles. It is no use
thinking that you are going to clear a heavily infested garden with one trap. Once an area is cleared then you need far fewer traps to keep it clear. It
is difficult to advise on how many traps are needed without actually visiting a site. As a rough guide, a small garden 1 to 2 traps, a medium 3 to 4,
and a large one 4 to 5. Alternatively work a section of the
garden at a time, but I would recommend that you have a minimum of three traps, but that you set them all
within a 30ft diameter circle.
Summary of the basic Mole Kit
3
Tunnel Traps, each one individually
tested and adjusted by me.
- 1 Mole Run
Probe. An essential tool for locating
runs. You can do it with a stick, but this tool makes it much easier.
- A CD
Rom. Goes in your computer CD Drive. A
step by step guide to mole catching. This is the heart of the system. Nobody who has studied
the first fifteen pages of this document has failed to catch moles. There are also 5 short
videos to clarify matters.
- Run Clearance
Tool. A grand name for a piece of bent
fencing wire. Essential in light sandy soils. Of less use on heavier
soils.
The Mole Kit plus contains
the above, but with one tunnel trap replaced by a Talpex Trap. The Talpex is used for the odd "tricky" mole that will not push through a
normal tunnel or scissor trap. No mole can evade you with the Mole Kit plus, but under normal
circumstances you would be unlucky to get a tricky mole. They are fairly rare.
Numbers of traps in The Mole Kit can be adjusted according to
choice when you go to On-line
Shop
The only other items you need are a border spade, that is to say one with a blade
the same width as a tunnel trap, approximately 5½ inches or 14cm. These can be bought quite cheaply in a local
market for about £8. You will also need a marker stick. A bamboo cane will do. Occasionally a
trowel will be needed.
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ITEM DETAILS
1. CD Rom Mole Trapping
with the Tunnel Trap (also available as 20 A4 page printout at extra
cost)
Most books on the subject of mole catching dwell on the breeding
cycle, feeding habits or history of the mole, and sometimes of the author. I have yet to find
one that contains step by step details of trapping technique
This CD contains those step by step details, with over 40 colour
photos. Pure catching technique. Also has 5 short video clips. These are to assist in
understanding how it works but are not a replacement for the written guide.
This CD only covers catching with the Tunnel Trap. Yes I
know that thousands of moles are caught each year in Scissor Traps, but I find the Tunnel Trap
vastly superior to the Scissor, but only when it has been fine tuned. An unadjusted one
will probably give you worse results than a scissor trap.
CD-ROM is pdf format, requires Adobe Reader to open file. Most
modern computers already have this.
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2.
Mole Run
Probe.
Makes finding the mole run simpler. Made of mild steel rod. The
tip is of larger diameter than the shaft of the rod. When you push the rod through the ground, it
creates a larger hole than the shaft. This means that when you hit a mole run, you feel the
distinct ‘drop’ as the shaft of the tool is not being gripped by the soil. Painted orange to
make it highly visible.
The CD Rom describes how to make your own but you will need access
to a welder and bench grinder.
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3.
Tunnel or Duffus
Trap. English made high quality Tunnel Traps. Each one has been fine tuned by me
so that you will not need to do it yourself. If you want untuned traps then contact me for a
quote.
Go to Shop
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4.
Run Clearance Tool.
Simply a 1ft long piece of fencing wire. Comes free
with order over £10. A wire coat hangar will do but is not really thick enough. On light
soils can be used to find tunnel entrance and clear runs. Not much use on medium to heavy
soils.
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5. Talpex Trap. Very occasionally you come across a mole that will not
push the trigger on a conventional trap, be it tunnel or scissor. This trap is triggered by
the mole clearing a blocked tunnel. Most people will never encounter these tricky moles, so
my basic kit does not include a Talpex. They are a bit
trickier to set and like other scissor type traps are prone to being jammed by stones.
However with one of these in your bag, there is no mole that cannot be caught. There are many
copies around, and some of them are truly terrible. I only sell the genuine article, stamped
with the makers name.
Go to Shop
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Preview of CD-ROM Mole Trapping with the
Tunnel Trap
A sample from the CD is given below
I have picked just five photos with accompanying text. There are over 40
photographs on the CD.
The CD is divided into two parts. Part One is in effect a QUICKSTART for those who have bought a pre-tuned Tunnel Trap from me, or who have
done their own. With no deviations or distractions it goes through the procedure that I follow each time I set a
trap. Each step is explained, and alongside is a colour photograph of the action being carried
out.
Part Two goes
into more detail on various points of mole trapping. It includes basic details such as how to FINE TUNE a tunnel
trap, how to make a Mole Run Probe, and advanced stuff such as how to make a very cheap molehill harrow to tow
behind an ATV or tractor.
SAMPLE FROM CD Rom
NOTE Except for the first & last photo, TEXT HAS BEEN REMOVED , so it will not make sense!!
SETTING THE
TRAP Hold one end of trap against your
stomach, spring side up. Make sure the retaining hook is dangling vertically downwards. Place index
and forefingers of both hands just under the tinplate rim furthest away from you
With both thumbs, press down on spring furthest away from you, pushing
down through plate
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With one of your fingers, bring up XXXXXXXX text removed
Bring over the top and XXXXXXXXXXtext
removed
text removed to be hooked into the trigger. xxxtext removed
You now come to HAIR TRIGGER. The key to success with a Tunnel Trap.
Keeping xxxxtext removed
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TUNING THE TRIGGER LOOP. The trigger loop itself
will need bending into the correct position, i.e. XXXXXXXtext removed
XXXXXtext removed
XXXXXtext removed A
mole may bend the trigger loop, so check each time you set the trap that the loop is correctly
positioned.
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Run location with a mole run probe. (If you have
not used a probe before then read PART TWO/ Mole Run Probe )Where to probe: The classic scenario is
that a line of molehills appears. Take your probe and push into the soil in a xxxtext removed
from 1 inch to nearly a couple
of feet deep, or more, but generally, if they are not surface runs, you will locate them xxxxxtext
removed
If you do not hit the tunnel first time, probe xxxtext
removed
If you are still having no success, then to give you an idea of where the
tunnel is likely to run, xxxtext removed
go down at any angle from vertical to nearly horizontal. Keep
probing until you reach the bottom, xxxx
.Use xxx text
removed xxxxx feeling the tunnel as you go. Try and get at least a
couple xxx text
removed from the molehill, more if
possible..
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| How long does a trap
last, or is it any good in the first place? It depends how long it is set for and how
often you use it. If it spends most of the time in the shed with springs released, then a lifetime.
If used a lot, or even permanently set, as some of mine are, then eventually the spring will
weaken. A good test is to allow the catching loop to gently "catch" your index finger. If it is
very painful or impossible to pull your finger out then the trap is fine. Alternatively leave your
finger in and if it cuts off the blood supply and becomes painful then the trap is good! If you can
pull your finger out, then reject trap. This test will also reveal some of the cheaper imported
traps with weak springs, which will allow you to pull your finger out from new. One of the most
common brands available, sold under the name Big Cheese, is one such, although they have improved
hugely as of August 2010 |
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